

Gourmet Traveller: Normandy landings
To travel to Normandy along the Seine is to take it by stealth, writes Larissa Dubecki, who ventured forth in search of châteaux and Calvados. Up close, the Seine is the pale, uneasy green of military-grade khaki. Further out, it deepens to a shade of olive that may have provided the inspiration for plain cigarette packaging. Only in the distance does it transform beyond the prosaic. It undergoes a silvering, its undulations tightly ribbed, almost platinum. The Seine is not a